poniedziałek, 31 października 2016

5 REASONS WHY I LOVE KENZO


  


3.11.2016. Save the date in your calendar! WHY? KENZO x H&M collaboration launch. Every fashionista knows that Humberto Leon & Carol Lim are one of the best designer duos in the current fashion world. Their collections are controversial but at the same time consistently follow Kenzo Takada's (former CEO) vision: “celebration of youth through a kaleidoscope of color within culture”.

Personally, I am really delighted about this combo. KENZO is truly one of my FAVE brands. Here are my TOP #5 reasons WHY I <3 KENZO:


#1 DESIGN AESTHETICS & BRAND PEDIGREE



The beginnings of Kenzo are connected with Kenzo Takada – the founder and first creative director. He created his international luxury fashion house in 1970. His designs represent the mix of two completely different cultures – Japanese and Parisian. That is why brand identity is often explained as West meets East. The brand started only with women collections and in 1983 menswear was launched. Takada wanted his brand to be very original and follow the consistent vision: “celebration of youth through a kaleidoscope of color within culture”. 




Over the years, both creative directors and their aesthetics were evolving (not always in the right direction). The period of Kenzo Takada (1970-1999) is described as positive rebellion because of creating uncompromising designs without any barriers and representing enjoyable part of life with the mix of Parisian and Japanese artistry. Innovative oversized clothing, lack of seams and looseness were pioneering solutions in the world fashion at that time. Furthermore, Takada developed his own distinctive understanding of modern fashion expressed by unique plant motives, cult of youth, abundant color scheme and extravagance. Since 2010 Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are creative directors. They are responsible for revival of Takada’s ideas but with their own attitude. That is why youth oriented, colorful designs appeared again. However, to show the movement with the times, Leon and Lim added some more positive impudence to the brand by creating urban funk and representing sector just above fast fashion (by lowering prices).

























#2 SHOPPING EXPERIENCE


The place can be discussed with regard to location and atmosphere. The importance of the store as a main communication tool with potential buyers is visible in each of Kenzo’s stores. Interestingly enough, the avoidance of large city centers, close proximity of cultural institutions and previous research about city’s culture and history play a huge role before locating a shop. Both outside and interior are very consistent with brand identity. The potential customer should experience an adventure inside the store. This cannot be done without: humorous aura, focus on amazement, subconscious buying orientation (expending more than predicted), digital approach (partnership with Samsung – interactive screens). In addiction, professional staff take care of high quality luxurious customer service, which is dependent on location of the store and type of client. Also personalized loyalty programs are available for regular buyers. To encourage fast decision making and initiate impulsive buying, visual merchandisers and window dressers keep the shop floor in warm colors. What is more, they use, three types of presentation of clothes (hanging, folding, mannequins), glass tables (up-market image), clear shopping path, effective ambient light and loud, high-tempo music.



#3 COLLABORATIONS


Kenzo is famous for its creative and controversial fashion movies e.g. Here Now and for fashion shows polished down to the last detail. These are a great chance to work with independent creators (e.g. Gregg Araki) and apply pure guerilla advertisement. Besides this, one major PR achievement was Kenzodiac which contained not only traditional horoscope, but also shopping recommendations featuring Manga style drawings (Japanese comics style). Great move was also cooperation with charity Blue Marine Foundation to raise awareness about dangers of marine life (pollution, overfishing and support financially the organization. The issue was especially close to the hearts of designers because they were both growing up in the vicinity of the Pacific Ocean. In order to do it, limited line of male and female T-shirts with slogan No Fish No Nothing was created. Public Relations were also boosted by numerous lucrative and fruitful collaborations with other fashion brands (Vans, New Era), groceries (Evian) and artistic projects (The Jungle Book movie or M.I.A.’s music video). 





#4 REVIVAL - FANTASTIC REPOSITIONING STRATEGY


The raise of profits could not be done without efficacious repositioning strategy. It was conducted as a consequence of murmuring about dismantling Kenzo from LVMH (problematic - generating only 2% of overall sales) in 2010. That is why it was crucial to move swiftly. The program assumed: hiring new creative directors (H. Leon and C. Lim). They brought new hope to the decrepit brand. They were already experienced and prosperous designers with their authorial brand Open Ceremony. As soon as business partners have become creative directors, they started introducing completely new solutions. These ranged from new fresh design convention (tiger and eye logo, urban twist, quirkiness), lowering prices and improving relations with customers (street style, stores) to advertising campaigns on a broad scale, fascinating collaborations, celebrity endorsement and relaunch of the webpage. All of these were done with commercial presence in social media. What is more, the recent annual report of LVMH (2015) provides only following information: “It was very successful year for Kenzo and Givenchy. Both brands increased their revenues significantly.”



#5 KENZO TIGER & KENZO EYE

Kenzo is also very popular and respected brand among public figures such as Rihanna, Beyoncé or Jessica Alba. They are often spotted while wearing Kenzo’s eye or tiger on their sweatshirts. The symbolic meaning of eye is focus and clarity whereas tiger was intended to stand for Takada’s cult of youth and boldness. These two patterns are doing extremely well in retailing (all the stock of tiger sweatshirt was sold in Paris stores in less than three hours on the arrival day). 








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