3.11.2016. Save the date
in your calendar! WHY? KENZO x H&M collaboration launch. Every
fashionista knows that Humberto Leon & Carol Lim are one of the best
designer duos in the current fashion world. Their collections are controversial
but at the same time consistently follow Kenzo Takada's (former CEO)
vision: “celebration of youth through a kaleidoscope of color within
culture”.
Personally, I am really
delighted about this combo. KENZO is truly one of my FAVE brands. Here are my
TOP #5 reasons WHY I <3 KENZO:
#1 DESIGN AESTHETICS & BRAND PEDIGREE
The beginnings of Kenzo are connected with Kenzo
Takada – the founder and first creative director. He created his international
luxury fashion house in 1970. His designs represent the mix of two
completely different cultures – Japanese and Parisian. That is why brand
identity is often explained as West meets East. The brand started only
with women collections and in 1983 menswear was launched. Takada wanted
his brand to be very original and follow the consistent vision: “celebration of
youth through a kaleidoscope of color within culture”.
Over the years, both creative
directors and their aesthetics were evolving (not always in the right
direction). The period of Kenzo Takada (1970-1999) is described as positive
rebellion because of creating uncompromising designs without any
barriers and representing enjoyable part of life with the mix of Parisian and
Japanese artistry. Innovative oversized clothing, lack of seams and
looseness were pioneering solutions in the world fashion at that time. Furthermore,
Takada developed his own distinctive understanding of modern fashion expressed
by unique plant motives, cult of youth, abundant color scheme and extravagance.
Since 2010 Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are creative directors. They are
responsible for revival of Takada’s ideas but with their own attitude. That is
why youth oriented, colorful designs appeared again. However, to show the
movement with the times, Leon and Lim added some more positive impudence to the
brand by creating urban funk and representing sector just above fast
fashion (by lowering prices).
#2 SHOPPING EXPERIENCE
The place can be discussed with regard to location and atmosphere. The
importance of the store as a main communication tool with potential buyers is
visible in each of Kenzo’s stores. Interestingly enough, the avoidance of large
city centers, close proximity of cultural institutions and previous research
about city’s culture and history play a huge role before locating a shop. Both
outside and interior are very consistent with brand identity. The potential
customer should experience an adventure inside the store. This cannot be done
without: humorous aura, focus on amazement, subconscious buying orientation
(expending more than predicted), digital approach (partnership with Samsung –
interactive screens). In addiction, professional staff take care of high quality
luxurious customer service, which is dependent on location of the store and
type of client. Also personalized loyalty programs are available for regular
buyers. To encourage fast decision making and initiate impulsive buying, visual
merchandisers and window dressers keep the shop floor in warm colors. What is
more, they use, three types of presentation of clothes (hanging, folding,
mannequins), glass tables (up-market image), clear shopping path, effective
ambient light and loud, high-tempo music.
#3 COLLABORATIONS
Kenzo is famous for its creative and
controversial fashion movies e.g. Here
Now and for fashion shows polished down to the last detail. These are a
great chance to work with independent creators (e.g. Gregg Araki) and apply pure
guerilla advertisement. Besides this, one major PR achievement was Kenzodiac which contained not only
traditional horoscope, but also shopping recommendations featuring Manga style
drawings (Japanese comics style). Great move was also
cooperation with charity Blue Marine
Foundation to raise awareness about dangers of marine life (pollution, overfishing
and support financially the organization. The issue was especially close to the
hearts of designers because they were both growing up in the vicinity of the
Pacific Ocean. In order to do it, limited line of male and
female T-shirts with slogan No Fish No Nothing
was created. Public Relations were also boosted by numerous lucrative and fruitful
collaborations with other fashion brands (Vans,
New Era), groceries (Evian) and artistic projects (The Jungle Book movie or M.I.A.’s music video).
#4 REVIVAL - FANTASTIC REPOSITIONING STRATEGY
The raise of profits could not be
done without efficacious repositioning strategy. It was conducted as a
consequence of murmuring about dismantling Kenzo from LVMH (problematic -
generating only 2% of overall sales) in 2010. That is why it was crucial to
move swiftly. The program assumed: hiring new creative directors (H. Leon and
C. Lim). They brought new hope to the decrepit brand. They were already
experienced and prosperous designers with their authorial brand Open Ceremony.
As soon as business partners have become creative directors, they started
introducing completely new solutions. These ranged from new fresh design convention
(tiger and eye logo, urban twist, quirkiness), lowering prices and improving
relations with customers (street style, stores) to advertising campaigns on a
broad scale, fascinating collaborations, celebrity endorsement and relaunch of
the webpage. All of these were done with commercial presence in social media.
What is more, the recent annual report of LVMH (2015) provides only following
information: “It was very successful year for Kenzo and Givenchy. Both brands
increased their revenues significantly.”
#5 KENZO TIGER & KENZO EYE
Kenzo is also very popular and
respected brand among public figures such as Rihanna, Beyoncé or Jessica Alba.
They are often spotted while wearing Kenzo’s eye or tiger on their sweatshirts.
The symbolic meaning of eye is focus and clarity whereas tiger was intended to
stand for Takada’s cult of youth and boldness. These two patterns are doing
extremely well in retailing (all the stock of tiger sweatshirt was sold in
Paris stores in less than three hours on the arrival day).
